Skin Deep
Beauty on the Black Market
By NATASHA SINGER
Published: February 16, 2006
MIAMI
SEVERAL times a week, friends of a Miami clothing importer tip her off
about illegal beauty treatments offered by unlicensed practitioners. Recently
they have recommended a doctor from Peru who flies in to perform plastic
surgery in a Miami apartment, a woman from Colombia who gives shots that melt
fat off the hips, and an aesthetician who injects material that permanently
bulks up the buttocks, she said.
"They call all the time to say that someone from Colombia, Venezuela or
Peru is coming to Miami, and he can inject you or do surgery," said the woman,
41, who was not identified to avoid causing her further embarrassment about
having tried one of these illicit procedures. Four years ago, the woman said,
she and five friends went to a house in Coral Gables, Fla., a wealthy suburb,
where a woman — she was introduced as the medical assistant to a renowned
plastic surgeon in Colombia — injected their faces with a cosmetic filler to
smooth their wrinkles and plump their lips.
"Afterwards my friends all looked fine, but my lips looked horribly
swollen," the clothing importer said last Thursday in the office of Dr. David
A. Rodriguez, a dermatologist in Coral Gables. She had come to Dr. Rodriguez
in hopes of fixing several pea-sized protrusions in her lips.
"These beauty sessions they go to are like Tupperware parties," Dr.
Rodriguez said. "But instead of getting a free casserole dish, the hostess
gets free injections."
He added, "But there's no one for them to go back to when they end up with
side effects."
In the last few years South Florida has become the nation's capital of
black-market beauty treatments, in the view of many licensed doctors in the
region who regularly see patients hoping to repair botched procedures. At
parties like the one the clothing importer attended, or during private
appointments in houses, hotel rooms, beauty salons and makeshift offices,
people are getting everything from silicone shots to Botox, and in some cases
plastic surgery, police and health department officials say.
The unlicensed practitioners, who include doctors trained in other
countries, nurses, medical aides and even beauticians, attract patients with
low fees, a willingness to use illegal permanent wrinkle fillers, a congenial
atmosphere or the convenience of not needing to make an appointment weeks in
advance.
"It's an epidemic," said Dr. Flor A. Mayoral, a dermatologist in Miami who
sees two or three patients a day who have been deformed by illegal beauty
procedures.
In 2001 the Miami-Dade Police Department responded by setting up an
unlicensed practitioner unit, one of the few such task forces in the country
dedicated to investigating medical fraud. The Florida Department of Health has
an Unlicensed Activity Office, the only one of its kind, to investigate those
who perform medical and cosmetic procedures without a license. Since its
inception in 1998, this office has investigated more than 4,000 complaints and
has led local police departments like Miami-Dade to arrest 485 unlicensed
practitioners.
Miami's proximity to Central America and South America, along with a huge
immigrant population and a party scene that caters to sculptured models and
bodybuilders make it an ideal hothouse for bootleg procedures, said Spencer
Marc Aronfeld, a lawyer in Coral Gables who is suing three unlicensed plastic
surgeons on behalf of clients.
"Miami offers perfect-storm conditions for cosmetic crime," Mr. Aronfeld
said. "It's a nexus of vanity, greed, corruption, warm weather, beautiful men
and women walking around all the time wearing as little clothing as possible
and unsophisticated immigrants trying to compete with them."
Miami's tightly knit immigrant groups inadvertently foster the underground
providers, Dr. Mayoral and Dr. Rodriguez said. "It may be a cultural thing,"
Dr. Rodriguez said. "College-educated women who trust the recommendation of
their friends and family go to unlicensed practitioners. If you are Colombian
and your friends say this man is a doctor from Colombia, you may go to him."
In October 2004 Miami-Dade police arrested Daniel Acosta after he offered
injections to a detective posing as a client. "He specialized in injecting lips
and buttocks," said the 33-year-old detective, who was not identified because
she works undercover.
After Mr. Acosta was arrested, police found needles, syringes, Botox and
prescription drugs in the apartment in Kendall, Fla., where he worked.
In April 2005, Mr. Acosta pleaded guilty to practicing medicine without a
license and was sentenced to probation.
Another unlicensed injector arrested in 2004 had a five-gallon bucket of
industrial silicone, the kind used to seal furniture or lubricate car engines,
that she injected in her clients' faces and bodies, detectives said. The woman
also kept a tube of Krazy Glue in a night stand next to her syringes.
"Sometimes they use Krazy Glue to plug up the holes they have injected into,"
the undercover detective said. "But some of them tell us they mix Krazy Glue
with saline and inject that. I don't think the public is aware of the
consequences of being injected with unknown substances in unsanitary
apartments."
The most frequent side effects from these beauty treatments are lumps and
bumps and lopsided or grossly exaggerated facial features. More serious
consequences, ranging from infection to death, have also occurred. Vera
Lawrence, a 53-year-old secretary, died in 2001 after having silicone injected
into her thighs and buttocks in an apartment in Miramar, Fla. One of the people
who gave the injections, Mark Hawkins, is serving a 30-year prison term for his
actions in the case. Most illicit beauty treatments in South Florida are offered
by immigrant practitioners who live in the state, or foreign practitioners who
fly in regularly to treat clients, police detectives say.
"We get a big influx of people who got their medical training elsewhere,"
said Sgt. Hector Llevat, a detective who oversees the Miami-Dade police's
unlicensed practitioner unit. "When some foreign-trained doctors get frustrated
trying to pass American medical exams, they decide to risk practicing without a
license."
In addition to women looking for bargains, the clients for black-market
treatments include transsexuals seeking to augment breasts and buttocks with
large volumes of silicone, Sergeant Llevat said, procedures the medical
establishment considers too dangerous. Also, doctors say some women who can
afford legitimate doctors get a thrill from having illicit treatments.
"Wealthy women are going to injection parties," said Dr. Daniel Kane, a
plastic surgeon in Miami who treats complications from these procedures. "They
tell each other: 'So-and-so is having a guy over to inject stuff. She looks
gorgeous.' And then they go. They're proud of it, until they have a problem."
The three most prevalent unlicensed medical activities here are plastic
surgery, injections to the face and body, and dentistry, said Bob Mundy, the
investigation manager for the Health Department's Unlicensed Activity Office for
South Florida.
Practicing medicine without a license in Florida is a felony punishable by up
to five years in prison. Helping unlicensed practitioners is also a felony.
Because of this, detectives say, illicit beauty practitioners use word-of-mouth
marketing through networks of hairdressers, manicurists, aestheticians and
personal trainers.
"You have to be very careful about who you refer, but it's still easy to get
a referral," said a 45-year-old hairstylist who works in a Coral Gables salon
that caters to affluent clients. The stylist's name was not used to avoid
associating him with providers of illicit treatments. "Instead of walking up to
a stranger and asking, 'Who did your hair?,' you ask 'Who did your lips?' " he
said. "Usually, someone will give you a phone number."
Dr. Mayoral sees serious side effects from black market beauty treatments.
She photographs the most egregious cases and categorizes them by appearance. She
classified one woman whose face looked hollow after she had illicit injections
as a "cadaver." The terms "chipmunks" and "blowfish" cover women who have been
injected with so much material that their faces are severely bloated. "Parrots"
are patients whose injections by amateurs cause their lips to resemble snouts.
"Some say they were injected with shark cartilage or with sheep collagen,"
Dr. Mayoral said. "But most of them have no idea what they've got in their
faces, which makes them hard to treat."
Repairs can be expensive. When patients come in with lopsided faces or lumpy
lips, Dr. Mayoral injects fillers like Restylane. This works, but a treatment
lasts no more than six months and can cost $600.
Patients offer different explanations as to why they get beauty treatments
from amateurs. "Greed over getting a cheap deal made me do it, combined with my
anxiety to be pretty," admitted Wilma Sepulveda, 51, an administrator at a real
estate development company who is now one of Dr. Mayoral's patients.
Five years ago Ms. Sepulveda said she paid $2,000 for a series of 10
injections from María Collado, a cosmetologist who had an office in Hialeah. Ms.
Sepulveda said she believed the woman was a dermatologist who was licensed in
the Dominican Republic.
After the injections Ms. Sepulveda's face became swollen and her lips
developed irregular lumps, she said. Ms. Sepulveda's sister, Thelma Vásquez, who
had her buttocks injected by the same practitioner, developed lesions and
pus-filled sores.
(Police arrested Ms. Collado in 2003 for unlicensed medical activity
unrelated to the case of Ms. Sepulveda, who did not file a criminal complaint.
The charges against Ms. Collado were dropped in March 2005 after she completed
an education program for first-time nonviolent offenders. Reached in the
Dominican Republic, where she performs surgery, Ms. Collado denied ever
practicing medicine in Florida.)
"I thought just because she does not have credentials here does not mean she
is not a doctor," Ms. Sepulveda said. "But I learned my lesson." She then
mentioned a cautionary phrase in Spanish. "Lo barato sale caro," she said.
"Something that looks cheap can end up costing you dearly." While people like
Ms. Sepulveda willingly visit unlicensed practitioners, other would-be patients
in Miami believe they are seeing licensed doctors.
In 2004 "De Mañanita," a Miami-based talk show on the Telemundo network,
broadcast a series on cosmetic treatments featuring Luis Ayala, whom one talk
show hostess referred to as "our own trusted plastic surgeon."
Watching the segments, Victoria Arnaiz, a manicurist in Hialeah Gardens, was
impressed by Mr. Ayala's professionalism. She had always wanted to have
liposuction. So when the show flashed the name of Mr. Ayala's clinic, the
Advanced Center for Cosmetic Surgery, she asked her husband to copy the phone
number.
Ms. Arnaiz then went to the clinic in Weston, an upscale suburb of Fort
Lauderdale. There she met Mr. Ayala and Gregorio Nosovsky, a man wearing green
surgical scrubs whom she believed to be another plastic surgeon.
They promised her that surgery would give her a body like Barbie's, she said.
"You say to yourself, 'These are the doctors I have been looking for,' " Ms.
Arnaiz said. Two weeks later both men were in the operating room before she
received anesthesia for her liposuction, she said. After the post-operative
corset was removed, Ms. Arnaiz discovered craterlike indentations on her back
and cottage-cheese-like lumps in her abdomen, which a licensed plastic surgeon
told her would cost $18,000 to $20,000 to fix. She cannot afford either fee.
Last April Mr. Nosovsky was arrested for the unlicensed practice of medicine
after another patient complained. After Mr. Nosovsky's arrest, 35 women who had
procedures at the clinic, including Ms. Arnaiz, contacted the police. Mr.
Nosovsky's criminal case is pending in state court. His lawyer, J. David
Bogenschutz, said Mr. Nosovsky is licensed in Mexico and "may have explained
operations and recuperations to people, but he never operated on a single
patient while he was in the state of Florida."
Ms. Arnaiz has sued Mr. Nosovsky and Mr. Ayala, who has not been charged in a
criminal complaint, for personal injury. Their civil lawyer, Louis Giovachino,
declined to comment because of the lawsuit.
Professional medical societies advise would-be patients to check the Web
sites of state medical boards to verify that the doctors they consult are
licensed.
In addition patients seeking cosmetic procedures are advised to contact
medical boards to see that doctors are board certified in dermatology or plastic
surgery.
"People are so anxious to have beauty procedures that they spend less time
investigating the practitioner than they would spend researching a new car or a
piece of jewelry," said Dr. Michael D. Storch, a plastic surgeon in Miami. "A
recommendation from a friend, a neighbor or a hairdresser is not more important
than a state license."